Costuming Tips
Covert Bling (the troupe I dance with and sometimes make items for) after a recent performance
Building up a Tribal Belly Dance costume can be painstaking, can often be expensive but is ultimately immensely satisfying....
There are ways of making sure that you don't make expensive blunders, and also thrifty ways to ensure you get the best looking costume pieces you can (as well as buying from me of course!). Below are some hints, tips and ideas to help you get the most for your money...
MAKE-UP
- Always buy the best you can afford if you're going to be performing, particularly if you'll perform in a variety of venues that may include theatres. In the long run highly pigmented shades will last longer, take less product to apply the depth of colour you want, and may be more versatile than less expensive brands.
- Go to a make-up counter in a department store and tell them what you do, ask for some advice and let them do their work. You might have to try a few different counters to get the colours, textures and effects you want, but what a great way to spend a few weekend afternoons! Don't feel you have to buy something straight away - explain that you would like to wear the make-up for a while to see how it "wears". Obviously, if you really like a product, make sure you go back for it. It may even be useful to write down what was used so that you won't forget if you go back on another day.
- Take care of brushes and applicators, wash them frequently in a gentle detergent solution to keep them clean and buy a container to store them in.
JEWELLERY
- My own collection of jewellery is quite large, but I have to confess that not all of the items I wear are "genuine Tribal". What's "genuine"? In my opinion, anything that came from the country it is supposed to have come from. "Antique" is another word bandied about - be aware that for many sellers, "antique" may not mean it's more than 30 years old. I myself have items for sale on these pages that can be dated to around that time, mostly by looking at the wear and tear - there are no labels here! It's difficult to pin down where some items have come from, so I prefer not to get too worked up about it all. If I like an item I wear it.
- There are some "Tribal" rules though. Delicate is out. Don't bother with delicate - it just doesn't have the presence of larger, chunkier, heavier pieces. It also can get lost within the rest of your costume if you're on stage. Be brave, wear the necklace you thought was too big; the bracelets that make too much noise as they clank together; even the big blingy brooch you thought was too over the top!
- If using a well-known auction site make sure you read descriptions carefully, check photographs and ALWAYS check the seller feedback.
- Check out second hand stores, car-boot sales, flea markets, Tribal costumers, swap or sell amongst your dance-mates. I once found a fabulous pair of cuffs at a car-boot sale for around £2.00 and everyone always asks where I got them from. Well-known high-street chains often have suitable jewellery and flowers, so look out for them in the sales if the over-all fashion trend is slightly different.
COSTUME PIECES
- If you would rather make your own costume items then make sure that you make them well. Always use strong thread. Don't rely on cheap and shoddy fasteners - change them if you need to. Please don't ever rely on a glue-gun to make something that you would like to wear again and again - I'll tell you now that as strong as that glue seems it will let you down much faster than some secure hand sewing.
- If you're going to buy a tiered skirt from the high-street instead of from a Tribal retailer, please make sure that you buy the longest and widest hemmed skirt you can. Nothing looks worse than a skimpy tiered skirt!
- When decorating your own bra make sure that you swap out the straps - once you've added some bling it will get heavy and you don't need to have skinny straps cutting into your flesh - even if it is only for 4 minutes at a Hafla. Try and remove and replace all of the original straps so that it looks less like underwear.
- Whilst hunting in shops, car-boot sales etc for jewellery items keep your eye open for things that can be used imaginatively - metal belts become bra covers or headdress ornaments. Earrings can become belt decorations. And always buy more than you think you'll need it you really like something (and can afford to). I can promise that if you don't you'll be wishing you did. And you can always sell on your spares to your dance-mates.
- Go for the best fake flowers you can afford. Try and avoid pastel colours unless they add a complete contrast in some way. Pastel flowers may look pretty but might look a little twee with all of that faqbulous make-up, heavy jewellery and yards of skirts you'll be wearing!
*
How Can I Make My Own Items?
There are many great resources on the net that give you step by step instructions so that you can make your own items.
Here's an article that first appeared in Taqasim magazine:
American Tribal Style Costuming “How-to” Guides
By Blackwillow
For many the allure and popularity of ATS (American Tribal Style) belly dance is enhanced by the eclectic, dramatic and striking visual dress style of the dancers almost as much as the group connection required in the actual process of dancing. For others it is off-putting and almost aggressive in its execution. The deep rich colours, large items of jewellery, layers of skirts and full trousers and the addition of a heavily decorated bra over a fitted, long-sleeved and back-less top comes as a shock for those with an set vision of how a “Belly Dancer” looks. Because the look is hugely different to that worn by those more used to the bright colours, sequins and beads of Cabaret/Oriental belly dance it can be difficult to work out where to start, what to buy or make and how to wear it.
What I hope to do here is point you in the right direction for some of the many Internet and book resources in existence that can enable you to conceive and create your own personal and troupe visual identity. Some I have had the opportunity to use and so can personally recommend, others I have yet to try out for myself but feel that the instructions are clear.
Whilst many styles of Tribal Belly Dance exist, including the Fusion styles that are applicable to both group and solo dancers, what I have concentrated on here is the basic ATS costume initiated by Fat Chance Belly Dance and developed by numerous others over the years. This includes a fitted back-less choli, decorated bra, tiered skirt, blouson trousers (popularly known as Harem trousers), tassel belt and turban/head wrap and large items of jewellery.
The look is one that draws elements and influences from many cultures across Asia and the Middle East, but one should be clear that many of these elements are more usually a fantasy representation of those cultures. There are many visual sources for design ideas available on the Internet or in publications such as National Geographic to help you to put colours and textures together in an interesting way.
The following articles, whether Internet or books, assume a reasonably confident level of skill with a needle and thread and sewing machine. You will no doubt find further links to similar articles once you start researching, but the following are my particular favourites due to their clear instructions and inclusion of pictures.
Back-less Choli
www.annabella.net/tribal/choli.html This article with full and clear instructions on how to create a pattern and sew the item has been tried by a friend and she highly rates its ease, fit and success. I have read of people who claim to have little confidence with a sewing machine tackle this pattern and succeed (on Tribe.net).
The Belly Dance Book: Rediscovering the Oldest Dance (Paperback)
by Tazz Richards (Editor), Kajira Djoumahna (Introduction), ISBN-10: 0970024703
Publisher: Backbeat Pr (Sep 2000) - In a large section devoted to belly dance costuming Dina Lydia, The Costume Goddess, describes how to make a back-less choli from a commercially available dress pattern.
Decorated Bra
www.annabella.net/tribal/coinbra.html One of the best descriptions, with photos, of how to quickly convert and decorate a bra to Tribal style.
Embellished Bras: Basic Techniques (Paperback) by Dawn Devine Brown, ISBN-10: 0967817064, Publisher: Ibexa Press (May 2003) – A fabulous and thorough “Workshop in a Book” that explains the process of converting and decorating a bra to the highest standard.
Tiered Skirt
www.annabella.net/tribal/skirt.html Again, fabulous instructions with all the information you need.
www.wiggle.org.uk/skirt.htm A great article with photographs. Be warned! Construction of a tiered skirt is simple but time consuming.
Trousers
www.shira.net/cg/harempants.htm Dina Lydia, The Costume Goddess, describes clearly how to measure for and construct a pair of trousers to wear underneath your skirt/s. These trousers are easier to make than a simple circle skirt as there is no curved hem to deal with.
Tying a Turban
www.davina.org/turban/sample2.html A sample page from Dawn Devine Browns’ book, From Turban to Toe Ring, available to buy from the same website.
Tassel Belt
www.davina.org/CNJune2001/RHPattern1.html The instructions explain and illustrate how to make a reversible hip wrap.
www.farfesha.com/pages/tassel_making.html Tassels can be added to this hip wrap to make a tassel belt.
Jewellery
One of the best resources for Tribal costume jewellery is eBay – just remember to look at the feedback records of sellers, read the descriptions thoroughly as pictures can be deceiving and be aware that if you’re paying (affordable) peanuts you’re not getting something antique. For other vendors type Tribal Belly Dance Jewellery into a search engine. Don’t forget to look at the links pages in any of the above-mentioned sites for further information and ideas. You can also find items at car-boot sales and charity shops if you’re lucky.
www.tribalbellydancecostume.com/buyingethnographica.htm by Palika of Heavy Hips. A discussion about the ethics of buying and collecting antique jewellery.
Extras
You can download one of Dawn Devine Browns’ (previously available for a fee) booklets for free at www.davina.us/publications/hintsandtips.html
www.costumes.org For a wealth of articles and pictures about historical and ethnographical costuming.
Visit www.Tribe.net and search in the many Tribes for Tribal Belly Dance and Tribal Belly Dance Costuming that exist there for more hints, tips and advice.
Fabrics and Colours
When choosing fabrics be aware that lots of layers means heat. Cottons are a good place to start as they will “breathe”, whilst panne velvet is a favourite for the choli top as it has some stretch, and brocades make a good addition for hip belts. Deep jewel tones such as purple, forest green, deep blue, burgundy/wine and black are a good place to start your colour palette. You can then add brighter jewel tones in green, yellow/orange, pink, red etc to lift and provide visual contrast. Also be careful not to “match” too much – matching items are more Cabaret in style – although using an accent colour on a head-wrap/turban belt and as an edging on a skirt will pull a look together.
Please be warned, as with any other dance costuming you may find yourself consumed with the desire to make or buy items until your house overflows and your families and friends roll their eyes with despair. No matter – be brave in your choices, wear your items with pride, and enjoy every moment.
My apologies to those whose articles I have not included, my thanks to those I have.
*
To book me for a costuming workshop, or just to find out more about the workshops that I offer, email me at enquiries@blackwillowtribal.co.uk
How Can I Make My Own Items?
There are many great resources on the net that give you step by step instructions so that you can make your own items.
Here's an article that first appeared in Taqasim magazine:
American Tribal Style Costuming “How-to” Guides
By Blackwillow
For many the allure and popularity of ATS (American Tribal Style) belly dance is enhanced by the eclectic, dramatic and striking visual dress style of the dancers almost as much as the group connection required in the actual process of dancing. For others it is off-putting and almost aggressive in its execution. The deep rich colours, large items of jewellery, layers of skirts and full trousers and the addition of a heavily decorated bra over a fitted, long-sleeved and back-less top comes as a shock for those with an set vision of how a “Belly Dancer” looks. Because the look is hugely different to that worn by those more used to the bright colours, sequins and beads of Cabaret/Oriental belly dance it can be difficult to work out where to start, what to buy or make and how to wear it.
What I hope to do here is point you in the right direction for some of the many Internet and book resources in existence that can enable you to conceive and create your own personal and troupe visual identity. Some I have had the opportunity to use and so can personally recommend, others I have yet to try out for myself but feel that the instructions are clear.
Whilst many styles of Tribal Belly Dance exist, including the Fusion styles that are applicable to both group and solo dancers, what I have concentrated on here is the basic ATS costume initiated by Fat Chance Belly Dance and developed by numerous others over the years. This includes a fitted back-less choli, decorated bra, tiered skirt, blouson trousers (popularly known as Harem trousers), tassel belt and turban/head wrap and large items of jewellery.
The look is one that draws elements and influences from many cultures across Asia and the Middle East, but one should be clear that many of these elements are more usually a fantasy representation of those cultures. There are many visual sources for design ideas available on the Internet or in publications such as National Geographic to help you to put colours and textures together in an interesting way.
The following articles, whether Internet or books, assume a reasonably confident level of skill with a needle and thread and sewing machine. You will no doubt find further links to similar articles once you start researching, but the following are my particular favourites due to their clear instructions and inclusion of pictures.
Back-less Choli
www.annabella.net/tribal/choli.html This article with full and clear instructions on how to create a pattern and sew the item has been tried by a friend and she highly rates its ease, fit and success. I have read of people who claim to have little confidence with a sewing machine tackle this pattern and succeed (on Tribe.net).
The Belly Dance Book: Rediscovering the Oldest Dance (Paperback)
by Tazz Richards (Editor), Kajira Djoumahna (Introduction), ISBN-10: 0970024703
Publisher: Backbeat Pr (Sep 2000) - In a large section devoted to belly dance costuming Dina Lydia, The Costume Goddess, describes how to make a back-less choli from a commercially available dress pattern.
Decorated Bra
www.annabella.net/tribal/coinbra.html One of the best descriptions, with photos, of how to quickly convert and decorate a bra to Tribal style.
Embellished Bras: Basic Techniques (Paperback) by Dawn Devine Brown, ISBN-10: 0967817064, Publisher: Ibexa Press (May 2003) – A fabulous and thorough “Workshop in a Book” that explains the process of converting and decorating a bra to the highest standard.
Tiered Skirt
www.annabella.net/tribal/skirt.html Again, fabulous instructions with all the information you need.
www.wiggle.org.uk/skirt.htm A great article with photographs. Be warned! Construction of a tiered skirt is simple but time consuming.
Trousers
www.shira.net/cg/harempants.htm Dina Lydia, The Costume Goddess, describes clearly how to measure for and construct a pair of trousers to wear underneath your skirt/s. These trousers are easier to make than a simple circle skirt as there is no curved hem to deal with.
Tying a Turban
www.davina.org/turban/sample2.html A sample page from Dawn Devine Browns’ book, From Turban to Toe Ring, available to buy from the same website.
Tassel Belt
www.davina.org/CNJune2001/RHPattern1.html The instructions explain and illustrate how to make a reversible hip wrap.
www.farfesha.com/pages/tassel_making.html Tassels can be added to this hip wrap to make a tassel belt.
Jewellery
One of the best resources for Tribal costume jewellery is eBay – just remember to look at the feedback records of sellers, read the descriptions thoroughly as pictures can be deceiving and be aware that if you’re paying (affordable) peanuts you’re not getting something antique. For other vendors type Tribal Belly Dance Jewellery into a search engine. Don’t forget to look at the links pages in any of the above-mentioned sites for further information and ideas. You can also find items at car-boot sales and charity shops if you’re lucky.
www.tribalbellydancecostume.com/buyingethnographica.htm by Palika of Heavy Hips. A discussion about the ethics of buying and collecting antique jewellery.
Extras
You can download one of Dawn Devine Browns’ (previously available for a fee) booklets for free at www.davina.us/publications/hintsandtips.html
www.costumes.org For a wealth of articles and pictures about historical and ethnographical costuming.
Visit www.Tribe.net and search in the many Tribes for Tribal Belly Dance and Tribal Belly Dance Costuming that exist there for more hints, tips and advice.
Fabrics and Colours
When choosing fabrics be aware that lots of layers means heat. Cottons are a good place to start as they will “breathe”, whilst panne velvet is a favourite for the choli top as it has some stretch, and brocades make a good addition for hip belts. Deep jewel tones such as purple, forest green, deep blue, burgundy/wine and black are a good place to start your colour palette. You can then add brighter jewel tones in green, yellow/orange, pink, red etc to lift and provide visual contrast. Also be careful not to “match” too much – matching items are more Cabaret in style – although using an accent colour on a head-wrap/turban belt and as an edging on a skirt will pull a look together.
Please be warned, as with any other dance costuming you may find yourself consumed with the desire to make or buy items until your house overflows and your families and friends roll their eyes with despair. No matter – be brave in your choices, wear your items with pride, and enjoy every moment.
My apologies to those whose articles I have not included, my thanks to those I have.
*
To book me for a costuming workshop, or just to find out more about the workshops that I offer, email me at enquiries@blackwillowtribal.co.uk